Clear Sky! Jungfraujoch--Top of Europe--Sunday, July 31

In the middle of the night, Jim wakes me up to show me eight stars that are visible in a small strip of sky above our little deck.  The rest of the sky--cloudy.  We decide to go into the valley for the day rather than up into the mountains again.  Then we go back to bed.

But wait--sunrise brings something new. Mountains jump out at us, peaks and ridges bold against the clear blue sky.    Change of plan--we're going to the glacier, to the tippy top today.  Jungfraujoch calls.

We're headed up to a distant peak; it's to the left out of view here.

Trains, all the way today.  The ticket cost for Jungfraujoch (Top of Europe) destination is discounted by our Swiss rail passes, but still costs over $300 USD.  For both of us.  We've planned to just do it, because we're here and it's here, and it's a clear day--ideal.  Later, I realize it's worth every cent.  The tunnels were cut into the mountain in 1912.

Into-the-valley view from the "Sphynx" platform.  This whole place is incredible--tunnels, infrastructure.  Wow.

A visitor sadly broke her leg (I think it was her leg) just before we came out onto the plateau viewing area.  She was laying in the snow clutching it.  After about 20 minutes a medivac copter landed right here--they shooed everyone away from the landing zone and commissioned Jim to hold the end of the stay-behind rope--but we all stood and gawked at the helicopter coming in, landing, blowing off hats and blasting snow at us.  And then watched it take off, dropping over the edge of the cliff, whoosh, and heading into...probably Interlaken.  Best wishes to the injured.

Ice tunnel and rooms carved into the glacier.  Every year, they carve a new one because the glacier moves several meters.  After seeing the medivac, I hold onto the railing as we skate-walk on the ice through all the rooms.

I almost didn't make it to the Monchhut (see it stuck onto the mountain?).  The climb was a couple of miles in slushy snow, most of it steep.  Knowing there was a WC there, though, was somewhat motivating.  And it was a lovely view!

Climbers are on the ridge, in the snow and on the rocky part.  We see a lot of climbers on many of the peaks.

And here is the glacier.  I think that's Italy in the far distance.  What a magnificent day, in perfect weather.  Sunny, no wind, 33 degrees up here.    

Saturday July 30, hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg to Eigergletscher to Wengen

SATURDAY, July 30
Wengen








After a fortifying breakfast--cereal, yogurt, eggs, fruit, cheese, bread bread bread...

 ...we lace up our hiking boots and trot over to the tram station, which is down the main street in Wengen, about 10 min. from our hotel.  It's a noon start on the roomy tram car that seems to float up the mountain face to deposit us at Mannlichen (elev. 2227 m).

We begin our 'easy' hike today in the clouds, aiming for the base of the Jungfraujoch even though we can't see it.  We hope the clouds will dissipate so we can see the massive mountain, and its glacier, from our destination, Eigergletscher (elev. 2320 m).





Our hike:

  Approaching Kleine Scheidegg (You mean we could have taken a train to get here???) 

 Clif Bar for lunch, then onward toward the glacier.  It's sunny for a few minutes here.  Our hopes rise.
 

We're here, Eigergletscher.  Can't see anything that looks like a big glacier, or even a looming mountain.  We know it's there.  Somewhere.

On the observation deck at the restaurant, we snack on an $8 cup of soup with bread.  And we wait for the clouds to lift.  If we're walking five more miles to Wengen I want some sustenance.

After lingering long enough for it to start to rain, we decide to start back down the mountain.  Jim stands on the edge, where he loves to be.

Friendly locals greet us as we descend.  Moo.  And gently they ring their neck bells--mountain melody all along our hike today.  I wonder when they get milked, and where?  Later, we see a sturdy wooden milk barn (it looks just like you'd imagine it should, nestled in a slope in the Alps) and hear the cows' bells clanging through the open windows.  A sign tells where to come through the door to buy milk.  How do cars get up here?  We realize they come on the walking path we're taking.

This railroad bridge/tunnel is lovely. We hang out to look it over, and the rain descends. We put on our rain coats after a few minutes, when the rain lessens, and walk on.

My tenderized big toes are very, very happy to see Wengen.  Several miles of the hike were a steep decline, hard on the toes even in good hiking boots.  But, oh joy, it's time for dinner when we arrive back at the Hotel Baren!

Noodles with a delicate sauce/dressing on the greens.

The banana sauce on pan seared chicken breast was a surprise--delicious.

A triple winner, three of my favorite foods: ice cream, whipped cream (moo), and chocolate.  We want to lick our plates.  The waitress offers to bring me more when I exclaim about how yummy it is.  I decline, can you believe it?  I'm falling asleep in my chair, though. 

Zurich to Luzern

After a day's travel to Zurich, we take the train from the air terminal--super convenient--to Luzern to spend our first night in Switzerland.  I sleep on the train in 30-second intervals, complete with 30-second dreams.  We're in the 2nd class car, quite comfy but not conducive to totally konking out since people are in the seats facing ours.

                                                            

  







The walk from the train station to our hotel takes about 10 minutes, but we stretch it out with brief sightseeing along the river.  The walk wakes me up.  Perfect temperature, about 70F.

The 'softo' reminds us of Japan! Didn't eat one.  Jim's calorie counting has got me more wary of what I consume, too.  I'm saving up for chocolate.

We're not lost.  Just checking out the lay of the land for tomorrow's quick tour of Luzern before we get on the train to Wengen.

Hotel Goldener Stern.  Room is top floor, under the eaves, tiny but clean, and with bathroom.  And only $210 per night!  The elevator was big enough for one person with backpack, me, so Jim gallantly climbed the stairs to the 5th floor.  Wow--can already feel the oxygen deprivation in the elevation.  Once I flap out the duvet, I fall into bed and sleep 12 hours straight.  I dream a sweet dream that I'm not in row 40-something on an airplane with my legs jammed against the seat in front of me.  Switzerland's time zone is exactly opposite ours; we wonder how we'll adjust.

 Friday morning: 
Breakfast is included.  This meal will take us through lunch while we're on the train.  We have seconds on bread when the staff brings out another, different, loaf.

  Luzern, old town in the background.  We explore before going to the train station.  A kind passer-by offers to take our picture; 'danke schon.'

Kapelbrucke, the 14th century bridge from our hotel-side of the Reuss River that we stroll across to walk around the old town.  I read that the bridge mostly burnt down in 1993 and was restored, so many of these old timbers aren't all that old.  Can you see the paintings in the eaves? 

 Old Town

Bahnhof, Luzern.  We're ready to board for the 2-hour ride to Wengen.  Many stops along the way at small towns.  Change trains twice.  The views!!!

Wengen at last.  Our home base for the next ten days.

 From here, the Wengen train station, we walk to our hotel, about 5 minutes down the path to the left, around to the right, under the railroad bridge, and up a short, steep hill.  Hotel Bären (bear).

 Efficient and comfortable room.

  The view from our hotel room balcony.

We've been looking forward to dining at our hotel since it's acclaimed for its food.  Well deserved!  Dinner was outstanding. 

Potato cheese soup

 Spring rolls and green salad with vinegar cherries and balsamic vinegret

 Fish with fennel sauce, and cous cous (much tastier than mine)

 Dessert: hay (yes!) whip in cup, and vinegar cherries.  Paw print in chocolate, since this is the 'Bear' hotel.

We plan tomorrow's hike while we stroll around town.