Wengen, Switzerland
Day 5--Cheese-making tour; walking to Murren and into Lauterbrunnen
Cheese-making in Allmend, in this lovely barn, is done the traditional way, with a big copper pot and hands-on skill. And only a generator to run the minimal mixing tool part way through the process. There's no electricity here.
While about 15 of us stand in close quarters in the cheese-making room, the cheese-maker tells us all the facts about the process, and starts the morning's batch while we watch.
Twenty-six cows contributed earlier in the morning. The cows are loaned during the summer to the cheese-makers, and their owners receive cheese and butter according to how much milk their cows contribute. The cows winter in Wengen.
The barn is open to sell cheese and butter to passers-by, not just people on the Tuesday tour.
All the heat for the process is from the wood stove designed to hold this humongous copper pot. Using only the light from the skylight, the cheese-maker stirs and stirs--and comments on how her summer job makes for great pecs.
I don't remember all the steps, but wow, what a lot of work. Results are revealed at breakfast, when we eat some 1-year cheeses. Sooo smooth.
When the mix is ready, things move fast. After transferring, squeezing out the liquid, and shaping the molds, the molds are stacked and compressed. They'll be moved to the cheese 'cave' later.
While the cheese heats to the correct temp, we traipse upstairs and eat a barn-attic breakfast.
The cheese and butter are made here, and there's a cold-cuts selection, yogurt and eggs, too. Coffee and tea and fresh warm milk. And bread. The variety and quality of breads in the area are spectacular. I've added at least a pound of evidence this week.
Much of the day is spent cleaning the equipment and barn.
Outside the barn and next to the pasture where the cows are busy chewing their cuds, and the chamois are roaming above us on the upper slopes, is the WC. No electricity in this little room, either; just the basics.
We buy a small pack of cheese (jarl) before we leave, then we walk down the steep path to Allmend to catch the train.
That's Wengen, above.
We take a quick break in Wengen to visit the bakery. Of course, Jim can't resist the challenge to walk the rope. It's set up in the park for everyone to play. Big chess set is in the cabinet; tennis court behind.
Jim's so good at all this fun stuff!
After we get into the valley of Lauterbrunnen, we join the crush to ride the gondola/tram up the Murren side of the mountain.
First lunch at the top of the tram. Then we walk the mostly flat path to Murren. Flat walking is a requirement for today, after the extra effort yesterday to go up, up, and then down, down.
Ever-vigilant Jim finds his favorite fruit--blueberries--growing wild at the side of the path. A little tart, but yummy.
Nature's wood sculpture.
From Murren and it's fabulous views of the valley, we head downhill to Gimmelwald to catch the tram that takes us back to the valley. Although there is a way to circumnavigate the sheer cliffs, it's way too steep (for us, today) to walk down. Gotta rest those knees.
Everywhere, even impossibly steep slopes, people are cutting and raking the grass for winter feed.
Stechelberg in the valley.
Back on the valley floor after a very fast and steep and swingy descent on the tram--so fun!-- we start walking to Lauterbrunnen. It's a flat trail, too.
We come into our hotel just as the rain pours and the thunder roars. We are so glad we made it, since the sun and 74 degrees made us dump all our rain gear in favor of small backpacks today.
Rain lasts only 20 minutes or so--refreshing.
And then there's another fabulous dinner.
Pea soup with mint.
Piquant carrots, with tiny mozzarella balls--I love that springy texture.
Roast duck breast, mashed potatoes, and the most delicious red pepper pudding/flan EVER.
Blackberry ice cake. The berries are so vibrant that I don't want the whipped cream to dull their taste. And whipped cream is one of my favorite foods. So I eat it first.
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